Quick answer: Work through the Complete Brightwork Polishing System in order: Top Cut to strip heavy oxidation, Striker to refine the surface, and Reflection to bring aircraft aluminum to a true mirror finish, then use Maverick spray polish to maintain that shine between full details.
By the Fly Shiny Team · 15+ years of professional aircraft detailing
What you'll need
- Fly Shiny Top Cut (16 oz) – heavy-cut compound for severe oxidation, deep staining, and etched water spots
- Fly Shiny Striker (16 oz) – medium-cut polish for moderate oxidation, staining, and swirl marks
- Fly Shiny Reflection (16 oz) – fine finishing polish for holograms and true mirror clarity
- Fly Shiny Maverick (16 oz) – sprayable polish for fast touch-ups between full sessions
All four come bundled in the Complete Brightwork Polishing System.
Why a staged system
Polished aircraft aluminum doesn't come back in one pass. Each polish in this system carries a different cut, so you can match the abrasive to how far gone the brightwork actually is instead of grinding away with one all-purpose polish. Top Cut levels the damage, Striker closes the gap between heavy correction and finishing, and Reflection – with a 30–60% aluminum oxide abrasive load – removes the holograms those earlier stages leave behind and builds true depth and gloss. You don't always need all three: lightly oxidized brightwork may only call for Striker and Reflection.
How to polish aircraft brightwork
1. Assess the oxidation
Check how far gone the metal is before picking a starting point. Heavily tarnished, neglected aluminum starts at Top Cut. Moderate staining or swirl marks can start at Striker. If the brightwork is already close to bright, you may only need Reflection.
2. Top Cut – remove heavy oxidation
Apply Top Cut to severely oxidized, stained, or etched aluminum first. It's formulated for maximum cutting power to level damaged metal and reveal a clean surface underneath, ready for the medium and finishing stages.
3. Striker – refine the surface
Follow with Striker to remove remaining oxidation, staining, and deeper swirl marks. It bridges the gap between heavy correction and final finishing, restoring clarity while prepping the metal for mirror polish.
4. Reflection – bring up the mirror finish
Finish with Reflection on prop spinners, wheel fairings, cowlings, and polished skins to remove holograms and build the aircraft's final depth, gloss, and true mirror reflection.
5. Maverick – maintain the shine
Between full polishing sessions, use Maverick's spray-on formula to knock down water spots and light oxidation in minutes, no heavy compounding required.
Protecting the finish
Once brightwork is mirror-polished, a ceramic layer keeps it that way longer. Follow up with Air Guard ceramic spray sealant or Pro Ceramic Coating to extend time between polishing cycles.
FAQ
Do I need to use all three cutting stages?
No – match your starting stage to the condition of the metal. Lightly oxidized brightwork may only need Striker and Reflection.
Will this work on warbirds and vintage polished aluminum?
Yes. Every polish in the system is formulated for aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless brightwork.
How often should I do a full polish?
That depends on exposure and whether the brightwork is sealed. Use Maverick for maintenance between sessions, and a ceramic sealant or coating to stretch the time between full corrections.
What can I use this system on?
Prop spinners, wheel fairings, cowlings, leading edges, and polished-aluminum skins.
About Fly Shiny
Fly Shiny makes aviation-grade detailing products engineered for aircraft paint, brightwork, and composite surfaces. Shop Top Cut, Striker, and Reflection, or save with the full Complete Brightwork Polishing System.
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